Sheesh! a

Shisha (sheesha) is the Persian word for what’s known as hookah back in my corner of the Western world. We’re talking water pipes today because smoking out of them is an incredibly popular “pastime” in the UAE. It’s not remotely healthy, but it’s my job to report to those who want to know. I’ve only been to one hookah bar in the U.S. but it’s the exact same thing, only much more widely-available here as you don’t need to go to a specialized establishment. Shisha is served in cafés, restaurants, bars, everywhere. In fact, we’ve gone to many places early in the evening where the pipes are already prepped and lined up- choose your flavor and you’re on your way. Because shisha is a social activity, the pipes are colorful and often ornate. For home use, pipes can be bought from stores on every other corner, which is just what I did. Here’s a pic of the lovely lady I chose:

I actually bought my pipe to serve as a centerpiece on my living room coffee table, a fun addition to my mostly-Ikea decorating. It qualifies as a piece of art and is one of the few authentic items I’ve purchased for my apartment. I also figured it would be put to use in social situations, rendering it multi-functional and worth the valuable space it takes up. I shopped for it with Tunisian a friend who was able to bargain the price down (yay for speaking Arabic) to “almost free,” including all accessories.

Now that I actually own one, I realize that this apparatus is fairly labor-intensive as it requires cleaning after each use with different size tiny brushes. Basically, it’s been used once so far, the day I bought it. But it looks pretty. The main components include:

Base or water jar: fairly self-explanatory- the bottom part that needs to be filled with water (or juice or ice)

Hose: a rubber tube that leads from the base to the user’s mouth

Bowl: the top section that houses the tobacco and charcoal

OK, so you put the water in the base. Using the pan pictured here,

heat up some charcoal (silver rectangles in pan above) with your handy-dandy crème brûlée blowtorch. Next, break up some of the gunk (below), which can contain tobacco or tobacco-free herbs; either way it’s supposedly marinated in molasses or honey with added flavoring and other ingredients that I’m absolutely positive are non-GMO, gluten-free, and completely organic:)

Put the tobacco in the bowl, cover it with foil and punch lots of little holes in it. Use tongs to lay a few pieces of charcoal on top and voilà! Shisha! Relax and enjoy ’til cleanup time. Or just order it tableside. Not good for you, but still good!

Adventures in “Plain Al Ain”

Al Ain is an area in the emirate of Abu Dhabi that’s a 90-minute drive from the actual city of Abu Dhabi. My friend Ashley was placed there to work at a middle school near the Oman border. I met her on our first night here; we were both assigned to the 10th floor of the Hotel Intercontinental and spent at least part of every day together until I was given the keys to my apartment. Several weeks later, after settling into our respective new homes, we agreed that a reunion was in order. I decided to go to Al Ain since Ashley had already seen the city and I wanted to get a feel for her new living situation.
Before either of us knew anything about her new home (other than its name) we were talking about our blogs and how she should rename hers to tie in with her current adventure. A few days prior, we had been told that people from Dubai like to call Abu Dhabi “Abu Shabi” because the two cities are always arguing about which one is better and the residents like to get a jab in whenever they can. We finally settled on “Plain Al Ain” because, frankly, it was the best nickname I came up with and it has a nice ring to it. If you can do better, by all means let me know.

Thank God for iTunes

Thank God for iTunes

After my extremely plain drive through the desert to Al Ain- the bonus factor being that it’s just under an hour away from my school- we went shopping to buy her some home furnishings. The following day we flirted with heat stroke at the Al Ain Zoo and laughed about the fact that we didn’t die (we were so hot we barely conversed the whole time). In general, she lives in a pretty regular town. It’s what people here think of as “suburban,” but it’s not like Chicago suburbs at all. It’s very spread out with sand hills all around; shopping is easier than it is in the city but it’s not as bustling by any means. Gas stations are also much more plentiful though, so it does have its good points.
At any rate, Al Ain is the proud home of a mountain called Jebel Hafeet. It’s over 1200m (4000 ft) high, which I didn’t realize until it was too late. Anyone who knows me knows that I have motion sickness issues; I’m usually able to work around them if I’m aware in advance that I’ll be on a boat, or circling endlessly on never-ending winding roads, or riding three roller coasters within an hour, or jumping out of a plane. However, we hadn’t discussed this field trip ahead of time so when I saw the mountain and the ominous road swirling to the top, I was reminded of the out-of-body experience I had while driving to Muir Woods in California and was like “Nooooo, I’m not sure I can handle this.” I’m so jaded that I actually keep Dramamine in my purse, but knew we’d reach our destination before the little miracle pill even kicked in. Since we were in Ashley’s rental car, I opted to let her to continue to drive just to absolve myself of any responsibility should we careen off the road; I begged her to drive slowly and to stop at the photo opp areas so I could physically and mentally re-group. I’m sure she thought I was nuts, as anyone who hasn’t experienced my motion-sickness-in-action would, but we eventually made it to the summit without incident.

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Once there, I was glad I’d held it together. At the top of the mountain sits Mercure, a beautiful oasis resort.
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We walked through the hotel to an outdoor restaurant called Eden Rock, which overlooks the pool on one side and the mountainside on the other. The waiter told us they only offered a prix fixe lunch menu so, having no choice, we went with that. Later, we noticed other diners eating hamburgers and club sandwiches, but we were in it for the experience so we didn’t complain, at least not until we asked to take our leftovers home and the waiter said “we don’t have containers for takeaway.” Of course you don’t; this is the UAE, where nothing makes sense and things are… just the way they are. Unfortunately, the food was so good we would’ve wrapped it in a napkin (aka a tissue here.. really- right out of the cardboard box) or carried it in our bare hands if that was feasible. Instead, we left a feast for the flies that swarmed our table.
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And these were just the apps!

And these were just the apps!

Since it was almost 5pm by the time we finished lunch, we made only one quick stop at the less-than-stellar gift shop before returning to the car. As soon as we began driving I realized that though there are two lanes on the way up the mountain, there’s only one on the way down. I forced Ashley to drive so slowly on the descent that she had to pull over to allow several aggravated drivers to pass us. My extreme concern for our health and safety didn’t stop her from carrying on a non-bluetooth cell phone conversation as we wound down the mountain. But because of her gabbing she completely missed out on seeing an extremely large, oddly-shaped mountain/sand formation that I cannot describe on my G-rated blog so that was her loss. Ashley says I should have interrupted her but I didn’t think she needed any more distractions. In reality, I thought we’d wind past it several times but our path didn’t take us around in a circle the way I’d anticipated. We eventually made it back to her apartment and had some laughs about the takeaway fail and how we didn’t melt into a puddle at the zoo. All in all, a good day and a fun weekend. As usual, we had a great time, made some new friends, and mixed in a little culture with our antics. Although we’ll probably use the nickname the entire time we’re here, Al Ain will never be plain as long as she’s living there.
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Inshallah

Inshallah is an Arabic phrase that translates to “God willing” or “if Allah wills it.” As with so many other phrases, the Arabic translation to English produces various spellings:

Inshallah
InshaAllah
Insha’Allah
Nshallah

I choose to use the form that is easiest for me, as there seems to be no right or wrong way to spell names, places, and phrases here; it has something to do with dropping vowels in Arabic. I’ve tried to grasp the concept but haven’t yet because 1) I don’t know the Arabic language beyond very few words and phrases and 2) this is just SUCH an unacceptable practice for an English teacher.

Use of the phrase “Inshallah” basically acknowledges that you’re submitting to the will of God and whatever happens is the way it’s meant to be. I can see how this fits into the Islamic lifestyle because Muslims believe that God has a plan and it’s all for the best. Because they don’t separate religion and culture, their religious beliefs govern all that is done here- a nice concept but it can be maddening at times.

Setting up house in the UAE has been a tedious process; time can stand still here. I often think of the movie Groundhog Day, where Bill Murray relives the same scenario over and over until he gets it right. We go to the same businesses and stores time and again trying to get service and fix problems. Most issues are resolved at a slow pace, if at all. Meetings start late, class schedules vary weekly, businesses are randomly closed during peak hours. From setting up my bank account to cable/internet, document translation, driver’s license, furniture delivery, car rental, cell phone service, work portal logon info, getting situated often required multiple frustrating in-person visits. In most places, you take a number then wait randomly for your letter/number combo to flash above a ‘customer service’ desk. This can take anywhere from ten minutes to an hour, but you quickly learn that having your number called doesn’t even mean that anyone’s really going to HELP you. Inshallah. God is definitely not willing things to happen as quickly as I am.

I went to the bank twice to finish setting up my online banking and was turned away both times. The first time, the guy told me I needed my passport and resident visa to proceed. I had not yet received my passport back with the visa page in it so I went home defeated. Lo and behold, I learn three days later that my passport is ready for pickup. I return to the same guy at the same bank, armed with every single document I had only to be told that he couldn’t assist me because I can only get help “over the phone”. OMG, are you serious? You’re the same person who told me to come back with my passport and visa! Can we call from the bank right now? No, he doesn’t have a phone. Really? A bank with no phone? Oddly enough, on that particular day, my phone wasn’t working either. “Inshallah, you will have your online banking as soon as you can call them.” Translation: Please leave so I can NOT help the next customer.

Same story with my cell phone but I won’t bore you with the details. “Inshallah, your complaint will be resolved and your phone should work tomorrow.” Ten days and two more trips later, God finally willed it to happen.

My internet appointment was set for Aug 27 but, brace yourself for the shock…. no technician appeared. Turns out the cable company was “out of cable boxes,” probably because they force you to pay for a cable box even if you only want internet. “Can you just send a tech over to hook up my internet? I need to work and Skype my family and I’m sitting in the hallway borrowing wifi from the lucky ones who got connected before the big cable box shortage hit. In fact, I don’t even WANT the cable box!” No, you must wait for the cable box. Inshallah, we will have them soon. Turns out it was God’s will that I had to wait three weeks for internet and no one else could do anything to speed the process along.

Even though I understand the whole “Inshallah” concept, I can’t get past the thought that it’s just carried too far sometimes. The other day, I saw a kid in a car standing on the front passenger seat, facing backwards and flailing his arms at his siblings in the back. Inshallah, little guy, you don’t go through the windshield. Although there’s such a thing as surrendering yourself to a Higher Power, didn’t God give us our own sensibilities for a reason?

I now pronounce Inshallah the same way people at home say “whatEVer!” and I use the phrase in similar instances. I know that’s not the way it was meant to be used, but I don’t think God’s intent is for everything to be in a state of complete disarray all the time, either. InSHALLah, I’ll chill out over time and accept this lifestyle more easily. Meanwhile, InSHALLah, God won’t be mad at me for saying Inshallah like a drama queen all the time. Inshallah, InshAllah, Insha’Allah, Nshallah… whatEVVVVVer!

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